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Vintage costume jewelry has a long and fascinating history.
It is prized not only for its style, but also for the reflection
of the historical period it represents. The brightness of Deco
rhinestones and the shine of Bakelite cheered up the depressed
1930s. The bold, lavish 1950s jewelry expressed the mood of postwar
booming economies.
In the early 1900s, working class Americans wanted to feel elegant
but lacked the money to purchase precious gems and found that
the sparkle of rhinestones rivals that of any precious stone.
Art Deco period (1920 - 1930s)
The Art Deco movement was an attempt to combine the harshness
of mass production with the sensitivity of art and design. The
Roaring Twenties was an age of prohibition, cocktail parties,
flappers, and the Charleston. It was during this period that Coco
Chanel introduced fake or paste jewelry (costume jewelry) to complete
the costume. The Art Deco movement died with the onset of the
Great Depression and the outbreak of World War II.
Some of the characteristics of the Art Deco period were:
- Free-flowing curves were replaced with a harshly geometric
and symmetrical theme
- Color played an important role -- black and white were preferred,
but bold colors were prominent
- Long pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings, and elaborate
accessory items such as cigarette cases and holders
- Ziegfield Follies showgirls used spangles, feathers, and headdresses
to draw the crowds
Retro period (1935 to 1950)
In the Retro period, designers struggled with the art versus mass
production dilemma. Natural materials merged with plastics. Jewelry
featured produced American-made jewelry that took on the American
look. With the war in Europe, many European jewelry firms were
shut down and several designers immigrated to the U.S. Europe
was in a deep depression and the U.S. was enjoying an economic
recovery.
Some of the characteristics of the Retro period were:
- Glamour, elegance, and sophistication
- Flowers, bows, and sunburst designs with a Hollywood flair
- Moonstones, horse motifs, military influence, and ballerinas
- Bakelite and other plastic jewelry
Art Modern period (1945 to 1960)
In the Art Modern period following World War II, jewelry designs
became more traditional and understated. The big, bold styles
of the Retro period went out of style and were replaced by the
more tailored styles of the 1950's and 60's. In the 1950s, jewelers
began selling their wares to wholesalers. Jewelry was selling
like hotcakes!
Some of the characteristics of the Art Modern period were:
- Bold, lavish jewelry
- Large, chunky bracelets, charm bracelets, Jade/opal, charm
bracelets, citrine, topaz
- Poodle pins, Christmas tree pins, and other Christmas jewelry
- Rhinestones flew off of store shelves
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